Why nickel matters in jewelry
Nickel is one of the most common triggers of contact allergies. Because jewelry is worn directly on the skin for long periods, the EU limits the amount of nickel a piece of jewelry may release. For retailers and brands, the topic matters in two ways: as a legal requirement and as a purchasing criterion, since many customers specifically look for nickel-free jewelry.
The limits at a glance
| Application | Nickel release limit |
|---|---|
| Parts inserted into pierced parts of the body, such as stud earrings | 0.2 µg/cm² per week |
| Jewelry in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, such as necklaces, bracelets, rings | 0.5 µg/cm² per week |
These values come from Annex XVII, entry 27 of the REACH Regulation. Nickel release is measured in accordance with the EN 1811 standard. For coated parts, the limit must still be met after at least two years of normal use; to verify this, wear is first simulated in accordance with EN 12472.
“Nickel-free” is not a protected term
There is no binding definition of “nickel-free.” In the trade, the term usually means that the jewelry stays well below the limits or that nickel is not used as an alloy component. Anyone using the term in advertising should be able to back it up with test reports.
Material and finishing
- 925 silver is usually alloyed with copper and then contains no nickel. Intermediate layers applied during finishing can be critical.
- Stainless steel such as 316L contains nickel as an alloy component. Thanks to its protective passive layer, however, release from suitable grades is usually low; testing the specific item provides certainty.
- Brass and other base metals are almost always coated. Here, the layer structure determines whether nickel is used as a barrier layer or whether nickel-free alternatives are used.
- Clasps, jump rings and earring posts are often sourced separately and must be tested just like the piece of jewelry itself.
How we handle this at Aviano
As the legal manufacturer of our commissioned collections, we define materials, layer structure and testing before production starts. Whether an item can be advertised as nickel-free, and with what evidence, is something we agree with you on a project basis.
Frequently asked questions
Is stainless steel jewelry nickel-free?
Not literally, as many stainless steel grades contain nickel. What counts for skin compatibility, however, is nickel release, and for suitable grades this is usually below the limits. A test report for the specific item provides certainty.
Do the limits also apply to fashion jewelry?
Yes. The limits apply to all jewelry placed on the market in the EU, regardless of price and material.
Do the rules also apply to watches?
Yes, to parts in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, such as the case back, strap and clasp.
Related terms
Planning your own jewelry collection? As a jewelry manufacturer for your brand, Aviano supports you from the first idea to delivery.